Positano Travel Guide
A guide to one of the most popular Amalfi Coast towns.
I traveled to Positano with a mission in mind. It was my Papa’s favorite place — he mentioned it a week before he died — and I wanted to feel connected to him. I also really love lemons (I ate them as a kid, and I always ask for extra at restaurants), so the Amalfi Coast has been calling my name since birth.
Positano is filled with tourists, and even though I was technically there during off-season, it was packed, but it’s busy for a reason. It’s particularly beautiful, and the views are insane. I took the ferry from Salerno (highly recommend) and even on a cloudy day, and it was still stunning.
Transportation: I was staying in Salerno as part of a Mediterranean cruise I went on with Regent Seven Seas, so I hopped on a ferry. It was about an hour and 20 minutes, but the ferry ride was stunning. It was a little chilly and cloudy out, but I really loved it. The views from the ferry were enough of a reason to make the trip.
I’m a massive ferry fan (I love taking the ferry in New York, too). How can you complain when there’s snacks, drinks and a bathroom onboard? If you’re planning an Amalfi Coast trip, I recommend flying into Naples. You can get to Positano by ferry, car, bus or train, but again, I haven’t done it myself, so I can’t fully vouch for it.
I only spent the day there, so I can’t speak to the hotels, but my grandparents stayed at Covo dei Saraceni and loved it. And Michelin Guide recommends these five hotels:
Known for La Sponda, its restaurant
You might spot a Kardashian or Jenner
“May just be the best hotel on the Amalfi Coast.” — Michelin Guide
Former home of French army officer and King of Naples Joachim Murat
Private-home-turned-boutique-hotel with a rooftop pool and impressive spa
Classic luxury hotel with a pool on a cliffside terrace
Surprisingly good lunch: Chez Black
Respectfully, I wasn’t planning to have an authentic meal in Positano. The more tourists, the harder it is to find a solid spot that feels fun and delicious. I wasn’t inclined to pick a spot right by the ferries, but my hunger got the best of me, and I opted for Chez Black, a restaurant that’s been around since 1949. I ordered the (homemade, gluten-free) uni pasta and hoped for the best — and I was pleasantly surprised. Not only was the pasta itself perfectly salty and briny, but it was served in an amazing purple sea urchin bowl (if you can even call it that) and the waiter put an adorable bib on me after setting the pasta down on the table.
Some restaurants recommended by The Michelin Guide: Al Palazzo, La Taverne del Leone, La Serra, Da Vincinzo + La Sponda (Le Sirenuse’s restaurant).
Best spot for lemon sorbet: Dolce & Salato
There are plenty of spots that serve the classic Positano lemon sorbet, but I’m convinced I found the best one. Dolce & Salato was incredible. Trust me. It tasted super fresh with no weird aftertaste. After eating the first one, I ordered another. I had to. No regrets.
Where to shop: It’s fun to bop around and check out the little stores, but everything is definitely more expensive than it would be in a smaller, neighboring town. Where there are tourists, there are high prices. Not surprising. Antica Sartoria is cheap (and I can’t completely recommend it because, well, fast fashion), but I did get a lemon-themed matching set there. I was in the Land of Lemons, and it was calling my name.
Activities people love — but I didn’t get a chance to try for myself: Hike the Path of the Gods (here’s some info from Lonely Planet) + check out Fornillo Beach (which Condé Nast Traveler named one of the best beaches on the Amalfi Coast).
Pro tip: Go beyond Positano. It’s fabulous, but there are other great neighboring towns, like Vietri sul Mare, which I will cover on Extra Credit soon. Also! Don’t fret over the views. The view is pretty great, no matter where you are.
When to go: It’s best to go to Positano during the shoulder seasons (April-May and September-October). But keep in mind that the weather is unpredictable. I had a moody, chilly, cloudy day in Positano, but it was still perfect. I think it helped weed out the crowd a little bit.
Extra Credit: There are tourists everywhere, so you’re probably not going to get a photo without people in the back. Just embrace it.
Positano was beautiful and amazing, and I highly recommend going. It’s the kind of place you have to visit at least once.
I hope you enjoyed reading this, and I’d love to hear your Positano recs. 🩵 Thank you for reading Extra Credit. I’m so glad you’re here.